The following instructions are primarily for experienced fence installers. If you have never installed a Horserail fence before, please contact us for more information. Detailed fence construction guidlines can be found here: PDF File / Word Document.

As with any installation procedure, we advise you to always be mindful of safety precautions when handling materials and equipment.

Where a new fence is being considered, we recommend at least three fencerails or a mix of fencerails and Horsecote wires to give added height and density. In the case of an arena, we suggest that four or five fencerails be installed. Please note the section below on "Preparation of Fence Line for Rail." To provide improved visibility and strength in an existing fence, it is a good idea to replace the top wires with a fencerail. While laying out the fence line, we suggest that you stake the position of all ends, corners and gateways. Next, tension a string line or guide wire so that you can see how the land lays.Then, measure the distances carefully so that you or your installer have a clear understanding of the project and quantities of materials needed.

Care should be exercised in preparing the fence line and the positioning of the line posts. (Try to avoid one post rise or one post dip). The tops of the posts should have a smooth, flowing line even if it means placing a rise post a little deeper or leaving a dip post higher. In extreme cases of undulating terrain, it is better to use a bulldozer to smooth the fence line, taking off the high spots and filling in the dips. Other options include fencing across the top of sharp dips and filling in later with boards or panels. Other methods include using two flat attaching buckles which will allow the Horserail to angle. You can also cut the top or bottom wire of the rail during the tensioning phase. Notch the web and carefully rejoin the wire with crimping sleeves. You can use a chain grab wire puller to assist at this time. The rail should then be stapled to the post again with the standard 2" (50mm) barbed staple or with a flat bracket. Please note that certain steep topography will make it very difficult to use the 4" (111mm) rail. Some installers limit the elevating change to 3 degrees per post.

While this is largely up to the individual, factors to be considered are:

livestock pressure
topography
firmness of soil and
corral, arena and/or paddock size.

Installers have found that these factors have indicated a range of between 6 feet(2m) for more intense situations or where the line is curved, such as an arena, and up to 16 feet(5m) for larger in-sheltered areas. The more posts you use, the better it looks.

Since the fencerail requires minimal tension to keep it flat and straight, (no excessive tension needed), a single end post with regular bracing is all that is necessary. Use as large an end post as possible, because it's the foundation of your fence. It also helps dwarf or hide the wire tensioners or spoolers. Have a look at this page on diagonal fence braces: diagonalbrace.pdf

We recommend that the rail be laid out rather than pulled out and that the rails are attached with the proper brackets to every 4th or 5th line post, BEFORE tensioning to the end posts. We suggest that you first tension the rail with a chain grab wire puller (come-a-long) at both ends while you are attaching the remaining brackets to the posts. Slide the spooler onto the rail before attaching the rail to the end post using a Horserail buckle. In 99.9% of the cases, it is recommended that spoolers be placed at both ends of each rail. The maximum distance of a fence from end to end is virtually unlimited on flat terrain. The rail will pull around corners fine, but in this case the length of the fence should be no more than 100 feet (30 meters) or so. Position the spoolers as close as possible to the end posts. Note: it's not recommended that you place spoolers in the middle of the fence span when using coated wire or rail products. If you require attaching the brackets and sliding on the spooler use a 45 degree end buckle to attach the rail to the first end post. Slide the rail through th bracketers and pull by hand before cutting the rail at the other end post. Attach another 45 degree end buckle and secure to the end post, remember to slide the second spooler, now tension both spoolers. Have a look at our brochure on Spoolers: Spoolers.pdf

Buckles come in three configurations:

End buckles - 45 Degree. For attachment of the rail to the end post (end buckles). Allows rail to be attached at an angle to post.
For joining rail and attaching of rail to the end post (joining buckle).
End buckles - Flat. For attachment of the rail to the end post and a dop or rise post to allow for change of direction.

The 'end buckle' needs to be attached to the end post using a galvanised lag bolt (min 6").